Chesil Beach
(Portland End – also known as Chesil Cove)
Chesil beach links the Isle of Portland to the mainland and forms one of the UK’s most extraordinary natural features. From the Portland end, the beach is made up of large, powerful pebbles and stones that rise steeply from the sea, giving an immediate sense of scale and drama. This vast shingle barrier is part of the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and there really is nowhere else quite like it. The beach has a long and dramatic history too. It inspired Ian McEwan’s novel On Chesil Beach and its film adaptation was shot here too. During the Second World War, this stretch of coast was used by Barne Wallis to test the Dambusters’ bouncing bomb. The small bridge at the start of the causeway marks the spot, chosen because it closely resembled the German dams they were preparing to attack.
Beautiful as it is, Chesil is also a beach to respect. The deep waters and strong tidal currents make it unsuitable for casual swimming, and it was once known to sailors as “Deadman’s Bay” because of the number of historic shipwrecks along this unforgiving stretch of coast. This isn’t a beach for paddling. It’s a beach for standing still, looking out, and taking it all in.
Why We Love It Here
We come to the end of Chesil for the sheer drama of it.. We often visit in two ways. Sometimes we’ll park near the start of Chesil Cove, walk along the promenade, then head back for food at the wonderfully quirky Quiddles Café or at The Cove Inn, which has a great menu and excellent local ales.
On other days, especially when the weather is turning, we’ll park near the Chesil Beach Visitor Centre by Ferry Bridge and walk out across the boardwalk and bridge to the beach. In stormy conditions, with waves crashing and wind howling, it’s a spectacular sight.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. Parking is available at several access points near the Portland end of Chesil, including around Chesil Cove and by the Visitor Centre at Ferry Bridge. Most parking is pay and display, depending on where you park.
Yes. This end of Chesil Beach is very dog-friendly, and dogs are welcome all year round. As always, it’s worth checking local signage, as restrictions can vary slightly by section.
Chesil Beach is not suitable for casual swimming because of strong tidal currents and steep shingle drop-offs. It’s popular with experienced anglers and scuba divers, but for most visitors it’s best enjoyed as a walk-and-look beach rather than a swim beach.
Facilities are conveniently spread around the Portland end of Chesil, making it easy to warm up or refuel after a walk. We often stop at Quiddles Café, an informal, friendly spot perfect for a quick bite, or head to The Cove Inn for something more substantial, with excellent food, local ales and harbour views. There’s also a café at the Chesil Beach Visitor Centre, ideal on cooler days, and a little further along you’ll find well-loved local spots such as Billy Winters, The Crab House Café, and several cafés around Portland Marina.
There’s plenty to explore around this part of the coast. Portland Castle, a well-preserved Tudor fort built by Henry VIII, sits nearby and is well worth a visit. Also worth a wander are Castletown and Portland Marina. Portland Bill is only a short drive away and makes a dramatic follow-on stop, while Tout Quarry Sculpture Park offers something completely different, with sculptures carved into the stone of a former quarry. For more coastal adventure, Church Ope Cove is nearby and pairs beautifully with a visit to Chesil.